Biocosmetics: technological advances and future outlook

The future of safe and effective skincare ingredients
The future of safe and effective skincare ingredients

Introduction

Biocosmetics are cosmetic products made from 100% natural ingredients derived from plants, animals, microbes, enzymes, insects, and organic crops that are free of pesticides and chemical fertilizers and used for topical skin, hair, face, and oral care (Vandamme 2001; Novak et al. 2014). Most of the conventional skin-care cosmetic formulations use petroleum or mineral oil-derived ingredients, which are harmful and non-biodegradable. To achieve a circular economy while satisfying customer demand for green cosmetics and addressing environmental concerns, many cosmetic giants have diverted their attention from fossil-based ingredients to bio-based ingredients. The current market for sustainable, natural, and greener cosmetics is massive because such products garner trust and respect by fairly treating nature. Additionally, government support and faster product approval for biocosmetics are creating a favorable climate for big business players such as The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. (USA), LOréal SA (France), Bare Escentuals, Inc. (USA), Nature’s Gate (USA), Aubrey Organics, Inc. (USA), and FANCL Corp. (Japan). This market has seen a sharp rise over the period 2018-2021 (Market Research Report 2019). As per market analysis reports related to skincare products, the global organic and natural cosmetic market is expected to reach USD25.11 billion by 2024 (Market Research Report 2021). Biocosmetic products with standard organic certification labels such as Ecocert, Cosmébio, NaTrue, USDA Organic, BDIH, and Soil Association allow their commercialization worldwide. The distribution channel for such products includes drugstores, pharmacies, organic food shops, health food retailers, department stores, beauty retailers, and online shopping sites.

This review highlights the importance of key ingredients in a cosmetic formulation and assesses the environmental and health risks associated with conventional petroleum-based ingredients. Active ingredients extracted from renewable bio-based alternatives are preferred because they are nontoxic and biodegradable. The search for high-performing, safe, and sustainable ingredients led many cosmetic manufacturers worldwide to explore the processes for producing natural and greener cosmetics. This review unifies technological innovation and industry in sourcing/extracting bio-based ingredients using lab cultivation processes, green synthesis of nanoformulations for fast and effective delivery, and selecting the best bioactive ingredient during process formulation steps using computational modeling. These scientific achievements are highly promising in incorporating new generation safe ingredients into our cosmetic products and in achieving zero waste goals.